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Adel Yazdi, an Iranian artist who has transformed an alley in one of the old neighbourhoods of Shiraz into an open air permanent art gallery, stands next to one of his high reliefs in the central Iranian city.
Image: Atta Kenare / AFP©

In the winding alleys of southern Iran, artist Adel Yazdi has taken it upon himself to turn his rustic old neighbourhood into a cultural and tourist hub through vibrant paintings and carved relief faces.

Narenjestan, a neighbourhood characterised by crumbling, uninhabited houses, is nestled in Shiraz, a southern city celebrated for its historic architecture, lush gardens and revered poets.

“Most of the dilapidated walls in old Shiraz have no historical value,” said Yazdi, a bushy-bearded, bespectacled 40-year-old artist who has dedicated himself to revitalising Narenjestan. 

Yazdi has over the years turned the long-neglected neighbourhood walls into a vivid visual tapestry “telling the stories of the people living here,” he said.

Arabesque patterns and relief faces carved with intricate details and painted in an array of vivid hues of greens, pinks, blues and purples now adorn the walls. 

With its striking designs and bright colours, Yazdi’s art can be reminiscent of Surrealism. It often comes across as surprising, showcasing a different side of Iran’s artistic heritage that goes beyond the conventional focus on Persian or Islamic architecture.

Social media sensation

The artwork includes the face of Scheherazade, Yazdi said, referencing the legendary storyteller from the “One Thousand and One Nights” collection of folktales. 

Yazdi’s work stands out in Shiraz where graffiti and murals are rare, becoming a social media sensation and a tourist attraction.

One visitor, Mahdieh, discovered Yazdi’s murals through Instagram.

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“I arrived in Shiraz yesterday… and it was the first site I wanted to visit,” said the 40-year-old, who declined to give her last name.

At the end of one alleyway, Yazdi has established his workshop in a century-old building with small rooms encircling a serene garden.

He also lives in the building, with a traditional Persian architectural style. 

It is filled with artefacts and sculptures, resembling a museum warehouse. Replicas of Shiite Muslim mosque doors feature prominently. 

To Maedah, a 30-year-old engineer, Yazdi’s house brings to mind “other historical places in the city, such as the Eram Garden and the Mausoleum of the Poet Hafez”.

Yazdi said he drew inspiration from the Pompidou Centre in Paris, a cultural hub that transformed the heart of the French capital in the 1970s. 

He hopes his efforts can turn Shiraz’s alleyways into even more of a vibrant cultural centre as well. 

At his residence, visitors are particularly drawn to what Yazdi calls “the Finger Room.”

Inside, he installed around 14,000 finger sculptures on the ceiling, all pointing downward.

“The room is inspired by the legend of an angel that counts raindrops with thousands of fingers,” he said, referring to an Islamic fable. 

“These fingers are there to constantly remind us that the present moment is precious and that we must seize it.”

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